Well, this is exactly what happened when a couple from a small town decided to make a trip to their local shelter one day. They noticed that in weather as low as 20 degrees, dogs where being kept outside the shelter due to overpopulation and lack of room inside the buildings.

Most people would simply shake their head at the unfortunate sight of these helpless animals but what this couple decided to do next would bring to light one of the most overlooked adversities that shelter dogs everywhere face every winter.

After putting their heads together, the couple decided to make a trip to their local Good-Will where they collected old and used sweaters. Then, with a little creativity and a few extra hours on their hands, they recycled these old sweaters and converted them into some of the cutest doggy sweaters you’ve ever seen!

Next, the couple re-visited their local shelters with bags upon bags of doggy sweaters to comfort the freezing dogs forced to sleep out in the cold.

Then (literally overnight) what seemed like a simple small dead, quickly turned into an urgent movement as bloggers everywhere began to spread the word, and this couple began taking donations for sweaters in hopes to distribute to shelters all across the country.

In her blog Alisha writes “Here in our small home town we only represent a small corner of the country. The winters are nice compared to many chilling places up north and through-out.

After talking to other shelters just in our area I can only imagine what dogs go through every winter all over the US. Its obvious we have (unexpectedly) stumbled upon a HUGE issue that should be addressed.”

And so it was, that hundreds of donations starting coming in from all over the the country big and small.

But according to our sources its not nearly enough. There are still thousands of shelter dogs left out in the cold every year due to overwhelming populations of stray dogs.

The couple are still taking sweater donations.

You can visit their blog by clicking here

Here’s how you can help:
Send us your old sweaters and we will recycle them and distribute them to animal shelters all over the us so that dogs just like the ones we’ve already helped dont have to suffer through the cold winter(the smaller the better). Im sure if you dig around your closet you can find a sweater or two that you never plan on wearing again.

Send your old sweaters to the following address:
Sweaters
PO Box 19071
Hattiesburg, MS 39404

If you DON’T have any old sweaters:
Then pass this blog to someone who does!

Do you have a friend or family member who has a passion for animals besides yourself? Then simply copy and paste the url below in an email and ask a friend or family member to visit this blog so they can help too!

http://bignutshell.com/blogs/dogproject/

Here is your chance to give back for the holidays and help save thousands of dogs from a freezing winter!

Remember that winter lasts long after the holidays, too!

I wrote last year about California Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger’s misguided plan to add a sales tax to veterinary services as part of a larger set of proposals to deal with the state’s multi-billion dollar budget shortfall. Thanks to the work of HSUS, the California Veterinary Medical Association, and state legislators, the governor’s idea was terminated, and California pet owners weren’t forced into an even more difficult situation where tough choices had to be made about cutting care for their animal companions.

What’s an even more hopeful sign of the times, however, is that federal lawmakers, led by Rep. Thaddeus McCotter (R-Mich.), are taking a much more foresighted approach by working to give pet owners a break during this economic downturn. McCotter has introduced H.R. 3501 — the Humanity and Pets Partnered Through the Years (HAPPY) Act — which would amend the federal tax code to allow a person to deduct up to $3,500 per year for pet care, including veterinary expenses. (The deduction applies only to household companion animals, not animals in laboratories, farms, or other businesses.)

McCotter has been a strong supporter of animal protection, and has advanced issues that promote the safety of both people and animals, such as dog bite prevention. We’re grateful for his leadership in this new effort to help struggling families make ends meet — recognizing that pets are part of the family, too.

During a stressful economic period, McCotter’s bill is as much a human health issue as an animal health issue. Pets are good for us emotionally and physically, and studies show that having a pet can lower your blood pressure and cholesterol levels. If you’ve lost your job or are having trouble paying the mortgage or rent, caring for a companion animal provides a sense of purpose and fulfillment and lessens feelings of loneliness and depression.

The legislation could be a critical safety net to prevent struggling pet owners who can no longer afford to care for their animal companions from relinquishing them at animal shelters — which not only tears families apart but also places a financial burden on local municipalities and private shelters for the costs of housing pets and, tragically, euthanizing them. And by encouraging affordable pet care, the bill not only promotes animal health and well-being, but also could help to stimulate the economy by driving more business to veterinarians, animal hospitals, and pet care providers.

Pet care, in fact, can be big business. More American households can claim pets than children as dependents. Since 1998, pet ownership has increased from 56% of households to 62%–an estimated 71.4 million homes enjoy pet companionship. And to care for these animals in our lives, we collectively spend more than $40 billion — on food, veterinary care, and other supplies and services — every year.

Moreover, pet ownership is not just for the wealthy — 58% of households earning incomes of $55,000 or less per year own pets. While pet ownership does increase with income, a recent American Veterinary Medical Association survey revealed that pets are most likely to be a part of families with children led by full-time workers owning their homes. And the largest growth rate in pet ownership is among retired older couples.

You can follow the progress of this Act on this website.

Pet food and regular veterinary care are necessities, not luxuries, for the companion animals in our lives, and we can’t skimp on these costs without jeopardizing the health and safety of our pets. If McCotter’s bill is passed into law, it will provide a helping hand to all of us, human and animal alike.

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• The Pongo Fund Pet Food Bank Honored by Oregon Veterinary Medical Association with 2010 Veterinary Service Award (prweb.com)
• CANIDAE All Natural Pet Foods to Award $10,000 in Veterinary Medicine Scholarships in 2010 (prweb.com)

So how old is my cat, really?
Cats are individuals and, like people, they experience advancing years in their own unique ways. Many cats begin to encounter age-related physical changes between seven and ten years of age, and most do so by the time they are 12. The commonly held belief that every “cat year” is worth seven “human years” is not entirely accurate. In reality, a one-year-old cat is physiologically similar to a 16-year-old human, and a two-year-old cat is like a person of 21. For every year thereafter, each cat year is worth about four human years. Using this formula, a ten-year-old cat is similar age wise to a 53-year-old person, a 12-year-old cat to a 61-year-old person, and a 15-year-old cat to a person of 73.

Advancing age is not a disease
Aging is a natural process. Although many complex physical changes accompany advancing years, age in and of itself is not a disease. Even though many conditions that affect older cats are not correctable, they can often be controlled. The key to making sure your senior cat has the healthiest and highest quality of life possible is to recognize and reduce factors that may be health risks, detect disease as early as possible, correct or delay the progression of disease, and improve or maintain the health of the body’s systems.

What happens as my cat ages?
The aging process is accompanied by many physical and behavioral changes:

• Compared to younger cats, the immune system of older cats is less able to fend off foreign invaders. Chronic diseases often associated with aging can impair immune function even further.
• Dehydration, a consequence of many diseases common to older cats, further diminishes blood circulation and immunity.
• The skin of an older cat is thinner and less elastic, has reduced blood circulation, and is more prone to infection.
• Older cats groom themselves less effectively than do younger cats, sometimes resulting in hair matting, skin odor, and inflammation.
• The claws of aging felines are often overgrown, thick, and brittle.
• In humans, aging changes in the brain contribute to a loss of memory and alterations in personality commonly referred to as senility. Similar symptoms are seen in elderly cats: wandering, excessive meowing, apparent disorientation, and avoidance of social interaction.
• For various reasons, hearing loss is common in cats of advanced age.
• Aging is also accompanied by many changes in the eyes. A slight haziness of the lens and a lacy appearance to the iris (the colored part of the eye) are both common age-related changes, but neither seems to decrease a cat’s vision to any appreciable extent. However, several diseases-especially those associated with high blood pressure-can seriously and irreversibly impair a cat’s ability to see.
• Dental disease is extremely common in older cats and can hinder eating and cause significant pain.
• Although many different diseases can cause a loss of appetite, in healthy senior cats, a decreased sense of smell may be partially responsible for a loss of interest in eating. However, the discomfort associated with dental disease is a more likely cause of reluctance to eat.
• Feline kidneys undergo a number of age-related changes that may ultimately lead to impaired function; kidney failure is a common disease in older cats, and its symptoms are extremely varied.
• Degenerative joint disease, or arthritis, is common in older cats. Although most arthritic cats don’t become overtly lame, they may have difficulty gaining access to litter boxes and food and water dishes, particularly if they have to jump or climb stairs to get to them.
• Hyperthyroidism (often resulting in overactivity); hypertension (high blood pressure, usually a result of either kidney failure or hyperthyroidism), diabetes mellitus; inflammatory bowel disease; and cancer are all examples of conditions that, though sometimes seen in younger cats, become more prevalent in cats as they age.

Is my cat sick, or is it just old age?
Owners of older cats often notice changes in their cat’s behavior, but consider these changes an inevitable and untreatable result of aging, and fail to report them to their veterinarian. Failure to use the litter box, changes in activity levels, and alterations in eating, drinking, or sleeping habits are examples. While veterinarians believe that some behavior problems are due to the diminishing mental abilities of aging cats, it is a mistake to automatically attribute all such changes to old age. In fact, the possibility of some underlying medical condition should always be the first consideration. Disease of virtually any organ system, or any condition that causes pain or impairs mobility can contribute to changes in behavior. For example:

• A fearful cat may not become aggressive until it is in pain (e.g., from dental disease) or less mobile (e.g., from arthritis).
• The increased urine production that often results from diseases common to aging cats (e.g., kidney failure, diabetes mellitus, or hyperthyroidism) may cause the litter box to become soiled more quickly than expected. The increased soil and odor may cause cats to find a bathroom more to their liking.
• Many cats that do not mark their territory with urine, even if exposed to intruding cats, may begin to do so if a condition like hyperthyroidism develops.
• Cats with painful arthritis may have difficulty gaining access to a litter box, especially if negotiating stairs is required. Even climbing into the box may be painful for such cats; urinating or defecating in an inappropriate location is the natural result.
• Older cats may be more sensitive to changes in the household since their ability to adapt to unfamiliar situations diminishes with age.

The take-home message? Never assume that changes you see in your older cat are simply due to old age, and therefore untreatable. Any alteration in your cat’s behavior or physical condition should alert you to contact your veterinarian.

How can I help keep my senior cat healthy?
Close observation is one of the most important tools you have to help keep your senior cat healthy. You may wish to perform a mini-physical examination on a weekly basis. Ask your veterinarian to show you how to do it and what to look for. You will find it easier if you just make the examination an extension of the way you normally interact with your cat. For example, while you are rubbing your cat’s head or scratching its chin, gently raise the upper lips with your thumb or forefinger so you can examine the teeth and gums. In the same way, you can lift the ear flaps and examine the ear canals. While you are stroking your cat’s fur, you can check for abnormal lumps or bumps, and evaluate the health of the skin and coat.

Daily Brushing
Daily brushing or combing removes loose hairs, preventing them from being swallowed and forming hair balls. Brushing also stimulates blood circulation and sebaceous gland secretions, resulting in a healthier skin and coat. Older cats may not use scratching posts as frequently as they did when they were younger; therefore, nails should be checked weekly and trimmed if necessary.

Proper Nutrition
Many cats tend towards obesity as they age. If your cat is overweight, you should ask your veterinarian to help you modify the diet so that a normal body condition can be restored. Other cats actually become too thin as they get older, apparently as part of the normal aging process. But progressive weight loss can also be caused by serious medical problems such as kidney failure, cancer, diabetes mellitus, inflammatory bowel disease, liver disease, hyperthyroidism, or some other condition. Subtle changes in weight are often the first sign of disease; ideally you should weigh your cat every month on a scale sensitive enough to detect such small changes. Keep a record of the weight, and notify your veterinarian of any significant changes. To ensure proper nutrition, select a nutritionally balanced and complete diet for your cat’s stage of life, and one that is formulated according to guidelines established by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO). Specific dietary changes may be necessary for cats with certain medical conditions. Your veterinarian can be of invaluable assistance in helping you select the most appropriate diet for your senior cat.

Exercise
Exercise is important, not only for weight control but overall health. Older cats frequently become less agile as arthritis develops and muscles begin to atrophy. Regularly engaging your cat in moderate play can promote muscle tone and suppleness, increase blood circulation, and help reduce weight in cats that are too heavy. During times of exercise, be alert to labored breathing or rapid tiring that may suggest the cat has a disease. It may also be necessary to relocate litter boxes to more accessible locations to prevent elderly cats from eliminating in inappropriate locations. Purchasing a litter box with low sides, cutting down high sides, or constructing a ramp around the box may help older cats gain entry more easily.

Reducing Stress
Reducing environmental stress whenever possible is very important since older cats are usually less adaptable to change. Special provisions should be made for older cats that must be boarded for a period of time. Having a familiar object, such as a blanket or toy, may prevent the cat from becoming too distraught in a strange environment. A better alternative is to have the older cat cared for at home by a neighbor, friend, or relative. Introducing a new pet may be a traumatic experience for older cats, and should be avoided whenever possible. Moving to a new home can be equally stressful. However, some stress can be alleviated by giving the older cat more affection and attention during times of emotional upheaval.

Cats are experts at hiding illness, and elderly cats are no exception. It is common for a cat to have a serious medical problem, yet not show any sign of it until the condition is quite advanced. Since most diseases can be managed more successfully when detected and treated early in their course, it is important for owners of senior cats to carefully monitor their behavior and health.

If you can’t answer “yes” to all of the following statements, please call your veterinarian as soon as possible.

My cat:

• is acting normally; seems active and in good spirits
• does not tire easily with moderate exercise
• does not have seizures or fainting episodes
• has a normal appetite
• has had no significant change in weight
• has a normal level of thirst and drinks the usual amount of water (about an ounce per pound of body weight per day, or less)
• does not vomit often
• does not regurgitate undigested food
• has no difficulty eating or swallowing
• has normal appearing bowel movements (formed and firm with no blood or mucus)
• defecates without difficulty
• urinates in normal amounts and with normal frequency; urine color is normal
• urinates without difficulty
• always uses a clean litter box
• has not developed any new offensive behavioral tendencies (such as aggression or urine spraying)
• has gums that are pink with no redness, swelling, or bleeding
• does not sneeze and has no nasal discharge
• has eyes that are bright, clear, and free of discharge
• has a coat that is full, glossy, and free of bald spots and mats; no excessive shedding is evident
• doesn’t scratch, lick, or chew excessively
• has skin that is not greasy and has no offensive odor
• is free of fleas, ticks, lice, and mites
• has no persistent abnormal swellings
• has no sores that do not heal
• has no bleeding or discharge from any body opening
• has ears that are clean and odor free
• doesn’t shake its head or scratch its ears
• hears normally and reacts as usual to its environment
• walks without stiffness, pain, or difficulty
• has feet that appear healthy, and has claws of normal length
• breathes normally without straining or coughing

How can my veterinarian help?
Just as your observations can help detect disease in the early stages, so too can regular veterinary examinations. Your veterinarian may suggest evaluating your healthy senior cat more frequently than a younger cat-for example, every six months instead of once a year. If your cat has a medical condition, more frequent evaluations may be necessary. During your cat’s examination, the veterinarian will gather a complete medical and behavioral history, perform a thorough physical examination in order to evaluate every organ system, check your cat’s weight and body condition, and compare them to previous evaluations. At least once a year, certain tests-including blood tests, fecal examination, and urine analysis-will be suggested. In this way, disorders can be found and treated early, and ongoing medical conditions can be appraised. Both are necessary to keep your senior cat in the best possible health for the longest possible time.

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reprinted from Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine website
This brochure was prepared by the American Association of Feline Practitioners and the Cornell Feline Health Center, Cornell University, College of Veterinary Medicine, Ithaca, New York 14853-6401. The center is committed to improving the health of cats by developing methods to prevent or cure feline diseases and by providing continuing education to veterinarians and cat owners. Much of that work is made possible by the financial support of friends. ©2002 by Cornell University. All rights reserved. Cornell University is an equal opportunity, affirmative action educator and employer.

Managing It

Chronic kidney (renal) disease commonly affects older animals, but it also occurs in younger animals with congenital abnormalities. The kidneys are two important organs that filter the blood and remove waste products from the body as urine, maintain the body’s water and electrolyte balance, regulate blood pressure, and produce a hormone that stimulates red blood cell production. When the kidneys fail, these substances build up and cause your pet to feel ill. Here are some ways you can help your pet.

Feed kidney-friendly food
A low-protein diet is one of the mainstays of treating chronic renal failure. That’s because the protein in food must be broken down by the body to be used for energy, and one of the byproducts is blood urea nitrogen (BUN). If your pet’s kidneys can’t remove that BUN, the animal starts to feel worse. A high-quality, low-protein diet, however, makes it easier for the kidneys. In fact, sometimes a diet change alone will help your pet feel better. Several low-protein diets are available through veterinarians, and these diets are the most effective method of slowing progression of the disease.

Keep your pet hydrated
Make sure your pet always has access to fresh water. In addition, giving fluids under the skin (subcutaneous fluid) can help flush out toxins and prevent dehydration. Some pets may need subcutaneous fluids twice a week, and others need them twice a day. Your veterinarian can teach you how to give fluid therapy at home.

Restrict dietary phosphorus
Because the kidneys are responsible for getting rid of excess phosphorus in the food your pet eats, phosphorus levels in the blood climb with kidney failure. This can reduce your pet’s appetite and also cause mineral deposits in the kidneys and other places in the body.

Two ways to keep your pet’s phosphorus level at a appropriate level include feeding less of the mineral and preventing its absorption from food. Low-protein diets are low in phosphorus. You can give your pet a phosphate binder medication—in liquid, powder, or tablet form—that binds to phosphorus in food and prevents it from being absorbed into your pet’s bloodstream. Phosphate binders must be given with meals, because the medication can’t do its job without food. If you change the frequency of feeding, talk to your veterinarian about changing the phosphate binder dose so you can give it with each meal.

Additional therapies for anemic pets
Anemia (low red blood cell count) is common in pets with chronic kidney failure. The kidneys make a hormone called erythropoietin that tells the bone marrow to make new red blood cells to replace older cells as the older cells are removed. When kidneys fail, they stop making adequate amounts of this hormone. The anemia develops slowly, giving the pet time to adapt. When the anemia is moderate to severe, your pet may appear tired or unwilling to eat. Blood transfusions can help for a short while, but transfused cells don’t last long, and the transfusions need to be repeated every few weeks. Hormone replacement shots are also available to treat anemia.

Soothe and protect the stomach
Stomach ulcers are a common problem in pets with kidney failure because of the toxins that build up in the blood. These ulcers can cause nausea and vomiting (occasionally with blood) as well as decrease your pet’s appetite, so an anti-ulcer medication to reduce stomach acid may be prescribed. Other drugs that coat the stomach to protect ulcers that have already formed may be used during flareups. However, these stomach-coating drugs can interfere with the absorption of other drugs and aren’t typically used long-term. Your veterinarian can answer questions about the best medications and dosing schedules for your pet.
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Adapted from Dr. Cathy Langston, DACVIM, at Animal Medical Center in New York

Special Pets, Special Needs, a 30-minute podcast produced by Small Plate Radio and available for free on iTunes, shines the light on the many unique challenges faced by pets who are geriatric, recovering from injury or surgery, or suffering from chronic or debilitating illnesses or conditions, such as arthritis, hip dysplasia, cancer, obesity, and degenerative myelopathy.

Featuring interviews with a wide range of guests, including veterinarians, medical researchers, and attorneys specializing in animal law, the show will help pet owners understand the myriad of medical and functional issues their pets face, and give them the information they need to help these important family members live more comfortable and more functional lives.

The podcast will air every other week beginning Tuesday, June 23, at 11AM Pacific time. Listeners can hear the live broadcast and ask questions via instant message by going to Scout’s House’s “Special Pets, Special Needs” podcast on Small Plate Radio, or they can download archived shows via iTunes.

The first show, hosted by Scout’s House CEO Lisa Stahr, features Physical Therapist Krista Niebaum, MPT, CCRT, who offers practical advice on how pet owners can modify their homes to accommodate their pets’ gradual or sudden disabilities.

Upcoming shows include Advances in Cancer Care with Linda Fineman, DVM, ACVIM, one the nation’s top veterinary oncologists, and Understanding Degenerative Myelopathy with Joan Coates, DVM, MS, DACVIM, the foremost authority on and researcher into degenerative myelopathy, a disease similar to Lou Gehrig’s Disease (ALS) in humans.

“People whose pets are ill or disabled — and sometimes even their veterinarians — often don’t know what they can do to help these animals be more comfortable and more functional,” explains Niebaum, Director of Rehab Therapy at Scout’s House. “With this show, we hope to give them a better understanding of the limitations a pet may face and some ideas on how to cope with them, including what products and services can help.”

Special needs pets are a growing segment of the pet care industry, fueled by pet owners’ increased demand for highly specialized veterinary treatments, such as rehabilitation therapy, oncology, and dentistry, that can improve the quality–and length–of life for their pets. According to American Pet Products Manufacturers Association, pet owners in the United States spent over $38.4 billion on their companion animals in 2006, with almost half that going to veterinary care, supplies, and over-the-counter medicines for their pets.

A state-of-the-art rehab therapy and boarding facility, Scout’s House is the only center in California dedicated to the care of special needs dogs and cats. Since opening in 2005, it has provided rehab therapy to more than 1000 companion animals, and through its online store Scout’s House Online Store has helped thousands of people around the world find products specifically designed to help their special needs pets.
…………………………………………………………….
reprinted from PRWeb website

Call ahead to hotels and motels to make sure pets are allowed. Many hotels relax their pet policies in times of crisis, but don’t assume that will be the case. For online information about pet-friendly hotels, go to www.bringyourpet.com, www.petswelcome.com, or www.pets-allowed-hotels.com.

Start packing your evacuation kit now. In the momentum of an evacuation, you might only throw a leash, pet food and some bowls in the car. Here is a list for you to print out and save on the refrigerator in case you need it later. It includes:

• Current photo of your pet (in case they get lost)
• Enough pet food for one week
• Food bowl
• Water bowl
• Bottled water
• Leash
• Collar
• ID tags (Pawtags has a wonderful new ID program)
• Proof of vaccination
• Rabies tag
• Portable kennel or crate (The crate should be large enough for your pet to stand and turn around in)
• Litterbox and litter for cats
• Trash bags for pet-waste disposal
• Newspaper or towels for crate lining
• Heartworm preventive
• Flea and tick protection
• All medications/supplements in a waterproof bag

Aren’t planning to take your pet? There are still things you need to do now to be ready:

• Make sure ID tags are up-to-date with your contact information, including info for a relative or friend outside the area.
• Also keep a current picture of your pet with you in case your dog gets lost.
• Create a portable disaster kit for your pet using the list from above, and keep in an easy-to-access location.
• Find a safe place to take your pet. Make a list of friends, relatives, pet-friendly motels, and kennels outside a potential disaster area.
• Make a list of important numbers for your area. Also include:
  • American Red Cross (800) 733-2767
  • Humane Society of the United States (202) 452-1100
  • Federal Emergency Management Agency (800) 621-3362

If you do this today, it will be one ting less to worry about in the event you need to evacuate your home whether it is for a hurricane or other emergency.

Warning: Do not use this ear cleaning solution on dogs with ruptured ear drums, or on dogs with open sores or wounds in the ear area.
An ear exam by a veterinarian is recommended prior to beginning treatment with this ear cleaning solution.

Ingredients

• White vinegar
• Powdered boric acid
• Isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol)
• Betadine antiseptic solution. Generic versions of the Betadine are known as Povidone-Iodine, and those are fine, too. Just be sure not to use “Betadine Scrub”, which is Betadine with a detergent added.

You’ll need an empty bottle to store your ear cleaning solution in, and from which you will squirt the solution in to your dog’s ear. We recommend the use of a plastic bottle with a long applicator snout, and with markings on the outside that show fluid levels in ounces. This makes it very easy to measure the ingredients as you pour them in to the bottle. A great place to find these is at beauty supply stores. They are commonly used for hair-coloring solutions.

Be sure to mix the ingredients in the order listed:

• Pour 6 ounces of isopropyl alcohol in to your applicator bottle.
• Next, add 1/2 tablespoon of boric acid powder. An easy way to do that is to measure the powder, dump it on to a piece of paper, fold the paper in half and use the paper as a funnel to get the powder in to the plastic applicator bottle. Be careful not to get any boric acid on your skin or clothing. If you do, wash it off immediately.
• Shake the solution up really well, until the boric acid powder is fully dissolved.
• Next, add 2 ounces of white vinegar. Shake it up some more.
• Finally, add one teaspoon of the generic Betadine antiseptic, and shake it some more.

The solution should take on coloring similar to ice tea. Be careful not to get any of the Betadine on your skin or clothing. It will stain. If you do, wash it off immediately.

Squirt the solution into the dog’s ear until you have completely filled the ear canal with cleaning solution. Fold the ear back down over the ear canal, and use your hand to rub things around so that the ear cleaning solution gets sloshed around inside there pretty well. You can remove the access with a paper towel.

Apply the cleaning solution to your dog’s ears daily until you start to see some improvement. Once things get better, you can cut back to once a week… and when you’re fully satisfied with the condition of the ear you can go two weeks between treatments. The ear cleaning solution can be stored at room temperature and, as far as I know, does not go bad with time.

One little tip: your dog won’t object to you squirting this stuff in his ear so much if you make sure the solution is warmed up to body temperature first. They hate it when you squirt cold liquid in their ears! Don’t use the microwave oven to heat the solution up, though… it’s too easy to accidentally overheat it. Just put the bottle in a sunny window sill for an hour or so, prior to use. Or warm the bottle in a pan of warm water like you would a baby bottle.
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reprinted from Zim Family Cocker Spaniel website

1. Chocolate. It’s toxic to dogs and tops the list of foods you should never give your dog. Baking chocolate is the worst and white chocolate is the least harmful, but please avoid giving any to your dog no matter how much he begs!

2. Grapes and raisins. These can cause kidney failure. You would think that these little morsels would be okay and even fun for your dog to eat, especially grapes because they roll around and your dog can chase them, but they can also be very deadly.

3. Onions are very bad for a dog’s digestive system, especially in large quantities, so please avoid them in any amount.

4. Bones. They are probably a dog’s favorite thing to eat, which is why this is the most surprising of all the foods you should never give your dog. They can chew, chew, chew and then bury them and dig them up for later. But the truth is, bones can splinter and become lodged in your dog’s intestines or even puncture them. Dogs can also choke on bone fragments. And it’s not just chicken bones. This is true of any bones.

5. Milk and milk-based products. An enzyme called lactose is needed to digest them, but dog’s don’t have enough of it. Even though dogs love ice cream, it’s a no-no for them.

6. Sugary and processed foods. Yeah, people eat a lot of that stuff. That’s why so many humans are obese and the weight loss industry is so lucrative. Dogs don’t digest these foods very well, so stick to healthy, nutritious, whole foods (it’s good advice for people too!).

7. Artificial sweeteners and artificial fats are harmful to dogs. In fact, they don’t really need any flavor enhancers to enjoy their food. They are happy with cooked foods just the way they are.

[Xylitol--a sugar-substitute found in many candies, gums, toothpastes and pastries—causes an insulin reaction in dogs that can cause liver failure within a few days. And the nearby pancreas is at risk if your dog gets too many greasy, fatty table scraps. Pancreatitis, an inflammation of the pancreas caused by the need to produce large amounts of digestive juices, shows itself as bloody vomit or diarrhea. Affected animals can suffer dehydration and even death.]

8. Any spicy foods or rich foods can harm your dog’s stomach. And like number 7 above, your dog does not need any spices or seasonings on his food to encourage him to gobble it up!

9. Food that is going bad. This one is hard because so many people do it. Instead of throwing food out that is going bad, many dog owners give it to their dog. Somehow it’s believed that dogs can tolerate this better than people. The fact is, you’re putting your dog’s health at risk by giving him food that should be thrown out.

Remember these important guidelines whenever you are considering sharing your table scraps or snacks with your dog. Fortunately, there are many people foods that are good and healthy for dogs. In fact, there are many dog food and treat recipes you can make with them. Just be sure the foods you should never give your dog, which are listed above, are not in any of them.

Did any of this information surprise you? Many people just didn’t know about some of these harmful foods. For more dog nutrition information and even some recipes that your dog will absolutely love, please visit http://www.matthewb-knowledge-site.com/index.html

Article Source: EzineArticles.com

“We had not seen the dog since 2006,” Parker said.

Per the owner, Apache also had a microchip, but the shelter scanned her twice and found no chip.

Apache, an 11-year-old Australian shepherd seizure-alert dog, knew the command “Go home.”

What she didn’t know was how to get there after being picked up as a lost dog May 14 and kept in a shelter for six days. Apache was euthanized May 20, minutes before her owner called in search of her.

Little did the family know that was twice as long as most dogs get because the county’s shelter usually keeps dogs older than 5 for just three days — a policy based on space and animal populations.

“Our normal holding period is three days,” said Toni Lytton, director of Beaufort County Animal Control and Shelter. “No one came looking for the dog until the sixth day. Our criteria is we don’t keep anything (older than) five years … because most animals over five don’t adjust well to a new home.”

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This dog did not need to die. She was a working service dog. But she had no service dog tag, outdated Rabies tag and an undetected microchip.

Bottom line: make sure your pet has a collar with up-to-date information. Write your phone number on the collar with a Sharpie or add a tag with your contact info. If your dog is microchipped, make sure you change your info if you move.

If your pet gets lost:

If numerous red cells are affected and rupture, anemia can result. It is a form of hemolytic anemia. Onions are only one of the substances which can cause Heinz body anemia. Other substances such as Acetominophen (Tylenol) and benzocaine-containing topical preparations can also cause Heinz body anemia in the dog.

The toxic effect of the onions are the same whether the product is raw, cooked or dehydrated. The hemolytic episode usually occurs several days after onion ingestion (lowest hematocrit around day 5 post ingestion). Daily feeding of onions could have a cumulative effect due to ongoing formation of Heinz bodies versus a single exposure with a wide gap until the next exposure, allowing the bone marrow time to regenerate the prematurely destroyed red cells.

The cat is even more susceptible. Recently, Gerber began to add onion powder to all its meat baby foods. They are labeled as “better tasting”. Since baby food is often used in sick cats that are not eating (to stimulate their appetites), there was concern that the onion powder would cause a Heinz body anemia in these cats. Within a week or two of the change, there were numerous reports of Heinz body anemia in cats receiving Gerber baby food in their diets.

[I use Gerber 2nd Food Chicken or Turkey. It contains no onions.]

I strongly recommend NO ONIONS for dogs. There is no benefit and certainly the potential to cause harm.

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Written by Dr. Wendy Wallner, DVM

NOTE: In moderation, garlic is safe for your dog and can help with conditions such as gas and flea prevention. It also has natural antibiotic properties.